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Light Up a Candy Dish 

Make] Projects 

Light Up a Candy Dish 

Written By: Steven Robert Cypherd 



Soldering iron (1) 


LED (25) 

Infrared LED. 850 nm (6) 

Reflective IR sensor (1) 


You can use my Light Up Halloween B circuit board to light up a candy dish or anything you 
desire. This one is for Halloween with a skeleton wreath and a pumpkin bucket for the dish. 
In this circuit I am using what I call an interrupter. It has both the infrared detector and 
emitter in one package. This one faces straight up and has four leads. See the pictures. In 
this B circuit board I needed to change R3 from 10K to 33K to handle the interrupter. I 
haven't modified the C & D circuits to use the interrupter yet. Also, because the interrupter 
has its own emitter I just put a 220 ohm resistor on the board next to R3 to power it. The 
right side of R3 is V+ (9v). You just solder the 220 to R3 on top of my board. 

The interrupter has four leads so just solder wires to the outside corners of each lead. The 
emitter and the detector can share the ground in the A & B circuits. The detector is reversed 
on the C & D circuits. One small wire or lead trimming can be used to connect pins 2 & 4 on 
the interrupter. Interrupter Pin 1 is Detector Collector (+), 2 is Detector Emitter (-), 3 is 
Emitter Anode (+), 4 is Emitter Cathode (-). Just three wires are needed for the A & B 

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Light Up a Candy Dish 

circuits boards. Ground to detector (-) on my board. Interrupter collector (+) to detector (+) 
on my board. Interrupter emitter (+) to the 220 resistor to V+ next to R3. 

The interrupter sometimes called a PhotoReFlector come clear or tinted to help with ambient 
light. Here are some current parts and where to get them. OPB606A(same as 
mine) Part no. 1872628, Line Sensor QRD1114 clear square, OPB730F IR 
Darlington Photoreflector tinted red round. They all work about the same. Why I call them 
interrupter is where you find them being used. Your printer has one that tells the printer 
where the paper is. That is why clear printer sheets have a white stripe label on the top 
edge. In hobby robots they are used for line tracking and object sensing. 

Each skeleton has my B circuit board with emitter and detector and 5 LEDs. I drilled a hole 
through each eye all of the way through the skull just a bit too small for the LEDs. From the 
back of the skull I drilled those holes out to fit the LEDs easily, but not all the way through. 
This stops the LEDs at a good spot. Glue them in place. Two small red LEDs for the eyes. A 
small yellow LED behind the head to pop it off the background. One normal-sized green LED 
inside the ribcage. One small green LED inside the pelvis. All of the LEDs are connected 
cathode to anode. V+ to the anode of little green pelvis LED, to green ribcage to little yellow 
back of head to left red eye to right red eye, and from that cathode to ground. The detector is 
on the right shoulder and the transmitter is on the left shoulder. Glue them on with enough 
wire to aim them once they are installed. 

In this project I use a B circuit to run the interrupter and the emitter is used to light up the 
skeletons. Aim the emitter at the first skeleton's detector. Turn on the transmitters and all 
the skeletons light up. Turn off just the B interrupter circuit's transmitter and the lights go 
out. By combining other circuits you can create motion art. Just aim the emitters at the 
detectors and the lights move. 

A normal-sized LED emitter can light up a big area and many of my circuits at one time. The 
side shooter two-lead types have a very narrow beam and only go about three inches. In this 
set up I can light up the next skeleton easily. Shielding stray infrared is a good idea, but 
stray infrared can also be fun. 

In the A & B circuits the lights come on when the detector is lit up by an emitter. In the C & 
D circuits the lights go out when the detector is lit up. In the A & D circuits the switch is 
connected to V+ to turn on the emitter. B & C circuits have the switch connected to the 
transistor so the emitter only turns on if the detector is lit and the transistor is on. Many 
wonderful things can be made with my circuits. 

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Light Up a Candy Dish 

I found a Halloween voice-box doormat at my RiteAid in Hollywood and I interfaced it with 
my circuit using the LEDs as a voltage divider to the test button. On the voice box's circuit 
board find the test switch that has two wires. One wire goes to to V+ (3 volts) and the other 
is next to the ground contact going to the daughter board. Solder your wire on top of this 
wire. Whenever you interface between circuits you must connect the grounds or they will not 
understand each other. Always put a resistor in series with your connection. My circuit runs 
on 9 volts and the voice box uses 3 volts. I used the point between LED 2 & LED 3 and 2.2K 
resistor in series. 

With my circuits you can use a switch to short the detector to turn on the transistor. Connect 
one wire to the detector's "+" lead and the other to the detector's "-" lead. I put a switch by 
the first skeleton and when it is on all of the skeletons light up. 

Step 1 — Light Up a Candy Dish 

• Parts 

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Light Up a Candy Dish 

Step 2 

Candy Dish 



4 Pin 1 2 

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4 3 

1 Detector + 3 Emitter + 

2 Detector - 4 Emitter - 

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On the A & B circuits the detector 

n the voice box find the test button wir 

es. White 

in this box. One goes 

to V+ battery and 


and the emitter can share the 

behind ground one g 

oes tu the daughte 



Solder on top of this wire on the ciruit board My 

Solder a wire between pins 2 & 4 

wire is white. Black goes to Ground You 

and to ground detector - on my 

connect the grounds 

or the circuits wil 

board. Pin 1 goes to detector + 

understand each other. I connected it to 


on my board. 

Led3 where they are 

joined with a 2.2 K 


I power the emitter from a 

series. The ground tu 

the Leds ground 

resistor soldered to the right side 
ofR3 orV+ on top of my board. 

• Voice Box 

st generated on 2012-10-31 07:58:14 AM. 

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